After leaving The Clink Prison Museum, I headed to Borough Market for a quick lunch. Borough Market is one of the oldest markets in London and it boasts an extensive array of food stalls and grocers, truly something to appeal to every taste. If you’re a foodie, Borough Market is something that you must experience. I was spoiled for choices, and throughly enjoyed the lively atmosphere, delicious smells, and talented street performers.
It was a tough choice, but I settled on a chicken wrap from Soul Food for my lunch. It was slightly spicy with fresh, crisp vegetables. Besides being tasty, it was an easy choice for a meal that I could easily eat while exploring the market.
My early-afternoon plans were to visit The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret. Housed in the attic of a historic building,, this medical museum is a hidden gem with an interesting backstory: The site was originally a church, which became a hospital and in the early 1800’s the operating theatre was constructed. The operating theatre was in use prior to the advent of anesthesia or many of our modern pain medicines. Take a moment to consider this and check out these two pieces of art that were at the museum. Scary stuff
The Old Operating Theatre shut-down in 1862. The entrances were boarded up and no one realized that it existed, until it was rediscovered in the 1950’s. The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret were in great disrepair, but the bones of the structure were solid and it was possible to salvage this building of historic importance.
I got a little lost trying to find the museum. There is a big university campus nearby and I was confused by all of the side streets. It didn’t help that my GPS wasn’t working. But getting lost, allowed me to come across this cute sign:
And a marker for the famous poet, John Keats, who also went to medical school.
Admission to The Old Operating Theatre and Herb Garret was only 6.50 pounds for adults. A bargain!
It’s a small museum and took me about an hour to explore. Don’t let the size put you off, it contains many exhibits that are absolutely fascinating. Another important item to note is that to access the museum, you must climb a very narrow and steep winding staircase. I was nervous on the stairs, especially on the way down. I’m not sure if they have an elevator elsewhere in the building to make it wheelchair accessible, but it worth asking prior to visiting.
The museum provides an educational experience for kids, which includes a craft table with anatomy and physiology themed projects. There were many young children during my visit and all of them seemed engaged in the content.
The exhibits explore 19th century medicine and surgical tools. Some are familiar, such as the use of leeches, but I was horrified by others, such as cakes to combat tape worms, apparently a rampant problem of the time.
The Old Operating Theatre is completely open, so it is possible to walk both around the gallery and down on to the operating floor. Having seen the medical instruments and armed with the knowledge that medicine is not what it is today, it’s easy to imagine the suffering that occurred in this arena. However, along with the suffering there was also alleviation of suffering and innovation in medicine.
Spending time here, made me think of my one and only operation. When I was in my late 20’s, I had an emergency surgery to remove my gallbladder. I had been experiencing painful gallstone episodes for years and finally, I had one episode where the stone wouldn’t pass. I was absolutely panicked about the surgery, hysterically crying, and although I knew that it was necessary, I was more nervous than I have ever been in my life.
My mom was having none of it. She had experienced many surgeries and was not sympathetic towards my feelings. Further more, I learned after the fact, that she told the anesthesiologist to wait to sedate me, so that I could get a good look at the operating room. She thought that I would find it “interesting” and didn't want me to miss out on the experience. I went into the room fully aware and vividly remember seeing all of the shiny, sharp scalpels on a tray near me. I got a good look before being knocked out. I cannot imagine the trauma that patients of earlier centuries endured, when anesthesia was not an option.
I forgive my mom. It was pretty cool to see the operating room.
Finally, there was a mention of poet John Keat’s time spent in the medical field and an exhibit about Miranda Barry, who disguised herself as a man taking the name James, in efforts to become a surgeon. She was the first licensed female physician and surgeon in England.
The Old Operating Theatre Museum and Herb Garret is a highly-recommend addition to your London vacation itinerary. It is close to many other attractions, making it easy to combine with other sites for a full-day out. It provides a unique glimpse into the evolution of medicine and life in a different century.